Architectural flavor and Tokyo’s Champs-Élysées.


It is commonly known that TV does not reflect the reality. The pictures we are brainwashed with every day make us insecure with what we have, who we are and where we belong. Cartoons are different- fiction is accepted and even expected. I always thought that this applies to anime as well and realized how wrong I was when Tokyo and its people turned out to be very much like in Osamu Tezuka’s or Katsuhiro Otomo’s creations. The sci-fi architecture and infrastructure, the rush, the food, the facial mimics, the cats with very human sulky expressions… I had all of it in front of me and I loved it!

DSC_0016cDSC_0004c   DSC_0064cDSC_0092c

Tokyo International Forum by Rafael Vinoly Architects (above and below).

DSC_0121cDSC_0141c   DSC_0157cUntitled_Panorama1c   DSC_0386cDSC_0392c

Omotesandō is a real magnet for architects and fashion victims :) It is an avenue, and neighborhood in the Minato and Shibuya wards in Tokyo Zelkova trees, lining both sides of the avenue, are almost as characteristic as fancy ladies with Guci bags. It is often being refered as “Tokyo’s Champs-Élysées“.

Today, Omotesandō is known as one of the foremost ‘architectural showcase’ streets in the world, featuring a multitude of fashion flagship stores within a short distance of each other. These include the Louis Vuitton store (Jun Aoki, 2002) Prada building (Herzog & de Meuron, 2003), Tod’s (Toyo Ito, 2004), Dior (SANAA, 2004), Omotesandō Hills (Tadao Ando, 2005) and Gyre (MVRDV, 2007), amongst others.

DSC_0389c   DSC_0394cDSC_0408c

Architect Toyo Ito designed the flagship store for Tod’s (above), whose criss-crossing concrete and glass façade imitates silhouettes of the zeklova trees lining Omotesando’s main avenue.


Prada store (above and below) by Herzog and de Meuron, Omotesando- Aoyama.


Here is a fantastic website for those who like sightseeing with an ‘architectural lens’:





Mount Fuji and Lama aus Yokohama


Mount Fuji is one of the most distinguishable symbols of Japan. Even though, seeing it from a close proximity was somewhere at the top of our to do list, we decided it was too cold to do so. Fortunately, on our way to Tokyo, we had a lot of luck. It was a crispy clear day so thanks to a great visibility we could admire this legendary cone, known for its symmetry and beautiful snowed-cap peak.


The warmest and most sunny day greeted us in the port of Yokohama. I guess the wedding photo shoot of a pretty Japanese couple planted an idea in our heads. Soon we started our own photo session. Oh how much we laughed…!

DSC_0190cDSC_0201cDSC_0224cDSC_0225cDSC_0227cDSC_0218cDSC_0214cDSC_0282cDSC_0207cDSC_0300c DSC_0297cDSC_0278c 



On our way to OSAKA we took a super fast Bullet Train, known as Shinkansen, which gains up to 320 km/h speed. The traveling experience is considered one of the biggest tourist attractions in Japan and tickets for the foreigners are 40% cheaper than for the locals. JR passes with tourist discount, however, cannot be acquired in the country, so don’t forget to apply for them a few weeks in advance! 


For weeks now I’ve been wondering what to write about our trip to Osaka. The city is big, busy and has a little bit of everything:  historical sites, surrealistic buildings, futuristic towers, boring city centre and mind-blowing night life.  

(above and below- the remaining tower of the Osaka Castle), 

DSC_0750cDSC_0793c DSC_0807c

Umeda Sky Building.

IMG_2257c IMG_2398cDSC_0814c   DSC_0937cDSC_0884c

After sunset,  Osaka showed it’s different- better- face. Considerably a lot of effort was put into the city lights, just as if the inhabitants, architecture and infrastructure were destined for the ‘by night’ perception. The streets network turned out to be logic, the buildings gained form while the people became energetic and alive. 

DSC_0910cDSC_0904cDSC_0165c DSC_0928c

The most amazing shrine in Osaka- the figures are covered with moss. On the way from work the residents stop by to say a quick prayer and to water the statues with water.

 DSC_0922c DSC_0964cDSC_0164c

Future telling on the streets of Osaka.

DSC_0949c  DSC_0952c

The City of Light is full of love hotels, which rent the rooms for hours.

Golden Pavilion, Bamboo Groove and flowers on paper walls.

IMG_2208Temple of the Golden Pavilion or Kinkaku-ji surprises, marvels, puts in doubt, makes you wonder, then astonishes again…

The view from the entrance area could not be more picturesque. Yes, here it is clearer than ever: the Japanese culture is known for its exquisite landscape design and the constant search for beauty and perfection. Looking at the Golden Pavilion, however, i had a disturbing feeling that all in all it is a little bit too much for me. I kept wondering why do I dare to feel any kind of discontent having seen such a beauty, and I was lost. The only possible answer might have been the visiting experience itself. Kinkaku-ji is like a jewel box- richly looking, shiny outside and inside and closed to the outsiders. I realize how much more do I enjoy minimalistic and humble architecture, which I can experience with all my senses?

DSC_0170cDSC_0188cDSC_0215cFrom Kinkakujicho we took a small train to Arashiyama forest. Since Tenryu-ji temple was closed due to renovation, we walked around the gardens on our way to the famous bamboo grove. 

DSC_0254cDSC_0278cDSC_0292cDSC_0324cDSC_0289c   DSC_0376cDSC_0384cDSC_0547cIn the afternoon we went back to Gion, knowing how much more we have to see.
Chion-in temple above and below.

DSC_0533cDSC_0586cShoren-in temple with beautiful floral paintings on the wall was almost completely abandoned. Those atmospheric interiors and garden tempted us to pose a bit for a few pictures :)




Geisha Hunt


Spotting a real geisha is not easy; they are like butterflies- beautiful, colorful and ethereal.
Despite the differences in the cultures, everyone, sooner or later, starts to admire their elegance and strive for perfection. Gion in Kyoto is the most famous geisha districts in all of Japan, where a chance to see a real one are pretty high. It is a place, where kimono rental shops grow like mushrooms after rain, offering a glimpse of a traditional life style to whoever desires it.

Geisha means ‘artist’ and refers to Japanese female hostesses who serves and entertain powerful, wealthy male businessman and politicians- the ‘modern samurai’. The ones who live in Gion are called geiko, understood as ‘a woman of the arts’. The geishas still in their training period are called maiko– ‘dance child’ and usually receive only half of the geisha salary. It takes years to master traditional Japanese arts such as dance, classical music, art of games and conversation, before an apprentice becomes initiated into the geisha community.

DSC_0937c   DSC_0967cDSC_0954cDSC_0969cJapan_Panorama_04ccDSC_0041cDSC_0961cDSC_0087c

After hours of a ‘Geisha Hunt’ I lost hope to see one. The moment I complained aloud a geisha almost run into me. She was in a big hurry, apparently trying to reach the pick-up spot, which was exactly where we stopped a few seconds earlier. I stood there not believing my luck. Feeling like an intruder in her presence, I was brave enough to take only this one picture (above). A few seconds later another geisha rushed by (below). Honestly, photographing running cheetahs was easier, and even though the pictures could have been better I was extremely happy to see real geishas in an atmospheric Gion district.


Gion remains an enclave of old-style Japanese houses called machiya, some of which are okyia– the geisha houses. There are also ‘tea houses’ called ochaya, where geishas work in the evenings. The most famous one- Ichiriki Chaya, is located right at the entrance of the Hanami-koji street. It is one of the oldest and most exclusive in the country, thus the access is strictly invitation-only. It became famous because of the story of 47 Ronin and their leader- Oishi Kuranosuke’s, who spent time there trying to mislead the potential spies. Some of the most prominent scenes from the ‘Memoirs of a Geisha’ were also located there. It is easy to recognize thanks to the groups of tourists waiting in from of it with their cameras on a stand by :)
The ochayas usually have no kitchens, therefore, the food is being delivered from the nearby restaurants (below).

DSC_0497cMemoirs-of-A-Geisha-Image-Source-gabtorbA scene form the ‘Memoirs of a Geisha’ Movie; Ichiriki Chaya in the background.

DSC_0107cDSC_0067cDSC_0070c DSC_0078-2c 


Thousand Vermilion Gates.


One of the first directions we took in Kyoto was its Southern Part.

Fushimi Inari is said to be the most important Shinto shrine dedicated to Inari, the god of rice. It is famous for its thousands of vermilion tori gates, which mark out the whole network of paths through the forest of Mount Inari. This was a good physical exercise for us; a quick way to warm up and loose breath ;) We were definitely not fit enough for these trails, unlike small Sayuri in a famous scene from ‘Memoirs of a Geisha’ movie (below).

A priest in a shrine.

DSC_0679cFoxes are believed to be messengers of Inari, thus there are a lot of statues resembling foxes can be seen on the way. 

DSC_0723cDSC_0793cDSC_0715cDSC_0797cWe were not the only ones who were cold :)

DSC_0802cDSC_0805cDSC_0729cA beautiful panorama of Kyoto from the viewing platforms on Mount Inari.

DSC_0665cDSC_0678cDSC_0836cA tiny restaurant was bursting with guests- either fried fish was really good or the spectacle of preparing it worked like a magnet on its clients… the second definitely worked on me as I must have been observing it for good 10 min.

DSC_0637ccHello? Can I call you Mr Nakata? ;)

‘Kafka on the shore’ by Haruki Murakami was a good companion in Japan.

Sleeping on tatami.

IMG_2167A big variety of movies, which take place in Japan, give us quite a good picture of how a traditional Japanese house looks like. Paper sliding walls, floors covered with tatami and squeaking shiny floors- this is what I expected to see in the first hostel we stayed in.

DSC_0479ccJapanese traditional houses have no clear devisions- the walls can seperate rooms or disappear when needed, crating more spacious interiors. Only sanitary- a kitchen, a toilet and a bathroom have a distinct and defined location. The most characteristic elements of the interior are the tatami straw modular mats covering the floors and defining the proportions of the rooms- and the shoji– sliding doors made out of wood grid, covered on one side with a paper layer that allows soft light to pass through.

In the pictures you can also see
tokonoma– a kind of a small alcove, located in the guest room, were usually a vertical scroll of calligraphy or piece art is hanging, decorated with traditional ikebana flowers. (In this case the ‘piece of art’ wasn’t very impressive ;)
rōkasmall hallways connecting the roomsDSC_0481ccDSC_0487ccNot really knowing what to expect I kept wondering if thin, single-layered glass walls can keep the warmth inside? The moment we entered the hostel through a tiny sliding doors to a tiny low corridor (genkan), my concerns did not disappear. It was freezing cold inside! I had no intention to take my jacket off and soon my feet turned into icicles. The nice reception girls offered, however, warm slippers and invited us to a peculiar table. Only later have I found out that it is a kotatsu a low, wooden table frame covered by a futon, or a heavy blanket. Underneath was a heat source and a hole for the legs, so we could sit comfortably enjoying the warmth and pleasant chat with hot green tea in out hands.326DSC_0491cc DSC_0488cc DSC_0492cEntrance doors from inside of genkan. The doors lock can not be more advanced ;) (above).IMG_2393Backpackers Guest House, Nara- than you for your hospitality.

Men on fire and deer poop.

DSC_0433cJapan is famous for its spectacular festivals, which are essential parts of strong, well-rooted traditions. The Fire Festival was the main reason why we chose NARA as our very first destination. The mystery around this event mixed with the fine festive atmosphere gives the audience show and fun they came for.

Here is a bit of explanation I found:

The Wakakusa Yamayaki is an annual festival during which the grass on the hillside of Nara’s Mount Wakakusayama is set on fire. The mountain is located at the eastern end of Nara Park, and when it is set alight it can be seen throughout the city. The burning of the mountain itself is preceded by a fireworks display. The festival takes places every year on the fourth Saturday in January.

The Wakakusa Yamayaki has been taking place for hundreds of years and its precise origins are unclear. One theory claims that the burning of the mountainside began during boundary conflicts between Nara’s greattemples, while another claims the fires were used to drive away wild boars.

DSC_0303cMount Wakakusayama before and after the festival.DSC_0552cDSC_0320cLocal Police and Fire fighters wait for the sunset (above).

Representatives of local monasteries take part in the procession, which precedes a really long prayer and setting the hill on fire (below).DSC_0348cDSC_0377cDSC_0443c

15 minutes of fireworks are followed by setting the hill on fire, which lasts around half an hour. In the mean time the artistic program kicks off.

DSC_0560ccMost of all Nara is famous for its 1500 DEERS, which wonder around and pose for pictures. Local gift shops are full of objects, which either have something to do with horns or fur. Sweets, called ‘deer poop’, can be found in all different sizes and flavors. Enjoy ;) IMG_2399DSC_0556ccThe local deers know their ways with girls ;)

DSC_0540cMy favorite afternoon snack- Matcha Latte (above) and Matcha cookies (below). DSC_0507c

The first capital of Nippon.


Many months ago we run across cheap tickets to Japan and without much thinking we booked the flights. Only later have we realized that we are going to spend 1.5 weeks in the area, which is not so close to the equator any more. At the end of January we packed our ridiculous winter jackets and off we went to a lifetime adventure!

Kansai Airport, the one close to Osaka, is only a 6 hours long flight from Singapore. From there we went straight to Nara, where an annual fire festival was taking place that same evening! More about that in the next post.


Nara was the first capital of Japan for only 74 years, before it was moved to Kyoto. This short period of time was, however, enough to turn a sleepy village into a significant spot on a cultural and architectural map of Japan. Among temples and shrines, which together are part of UNESCO Heritage Site, the Eastern Great Temple is definitely the most impressive. So called Tōdai-ji is a temple complex and one of the biggest wooden structures in the world. Its Great Buddha Hall houses the world’s largest bronze statue of the Buddha.

DSC_0074c   DSC_0054cDSC_0060c

The columns in the Hall are massive! One of them has a hole at the bottom. Whoever manages to squeeze through will leave the temple with a lot of luck. The spot seem to be extremely popular among students, who line up in long queues to face the challenge. The smart ones start with the arms up and have their friends to pull them out- lets say it works as well ;)


In stead of real donations, one can buy a real roof tile, sign it and become a part of the temple for another few years.


The Great Hall, just like all the other historical places, were always full of Japanese school trips. DSC_0140cIMG_2395IMG_2147IMG_2396

Nara was the coldest places of all we have visited. The monks in this particular monastery were kind enough to offer hot free tea in a warm and cosy room to weary travelers and local worshippers.




On the market.

DSC_5726cI like looking at people. In fact, people can tell you the most about the country they live in, without even using words. They are the backbone of the place. Even the most impressive architecture or landscape would be dull without them. They bring flavor, scent and texture to whichever travel you are ‘consuming’.
The Cambodian must make an incredibly good impression on every foreigner. Those outgoing and friendly residents make their country hospitable and even more beautiful. While cycling through the rural areas we were greeted by each and every person met on the way. The kids were eagerly involved in the ‘spot the foreigner’ game. The moment they saw our ‘caravan’ approaching, they run and screamed ‘Hello’. Those who almost missed us run behind our bikes for a while making sure we heard the greeting ;)


The local market we had a chance to visit overwhelmed us with the amount of colours and scents of fresh food. The bikes and motorbikes are not only means of transport but also mobile stalls, which travel with the owner (see the butcher). DSC_5785c DSC_5783cDSC_5788cDSC_5797cDSC_5742cThe net wrapping- a new way to tame toddler? ;)

Mobile butcher shop. The piglets on their way to the market (above), and alredy on sale poor things (below).DSC_5735c

Not the best example of incredible acrobatics done on a single vehicle- the maximum capacity of a Cambodian motorbike is up to 8 people, including kids!!!DSC_5103c     

The ‘Jewel of Khmer art’.


BANTEAY SREI- is a temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva built in 10th century.
The complex looks even more spectacular in the evening sun, for the reddish color of the sandstone walls gain on the intensity. I could not look enough on the decorative details of the temple- the carvings on the red sandstone walls are truly masterpieces! No wonder Banteay Srei is called the ‘jewel of Khmer art’.

DSC_0776c DSC_5315cDSC_5271c

Phnom Kulen Area.
The half day of cycling brought us to the remote off-the-beaten-tracks temples. Over 50km away to the North from Siem Reap, the Phnom Kulen National Park is located.

Numerous terraces bracing the main core of the temple forced us to do some extra exercises in the unbearable heat. Nevertheless, it was worth climbing till the top point.

The site consists of a series of stone carvings in sandstone formations carved in the river bed and banks. The forest around it looks like enhanced with ‘hobbit caves’ and weirdly twisted roots and lianas.

DSC_5193cDSC_0709c DSC_5182c




The numerous Faces of Bayon Temple

cambodia-panorama02cBAYON TEMPLE in Angkor Thom is one of the Khmer religious centers. It is famous for its multiple huge stone faces representing the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara.

At first it seems like a fun place. However, you might become slightly intimidated by the numerous smirking ‘Mona Lisas of the East’ observing every step of yours ;)

Despite that, it is absolutely one of the most picturesque places in Angkor Thom- the other former town next to Angkor Wat.
DSC_4769cDSC_4599cDSC_4693bDSC_0301cDSC_0307cAffected by the stone faces I decided to spy a bit as well ;)  (above)

In front of this temple (which name I have forgotten), a small stand with durian flavored ice-cream was very popular among the monks. (below)DSC_4584cDSC_4590c


The amazing Angkor Wat


Despite all the incredible temples we have seen, the ‘oscar’ definitely goes to Angkor. As the prime attraction of the whole Cambodia, it overwhelms with it’s grandness, picturesqueness and variety of details. Build originally as a Hindu temple in the early 12th century, Angkor is the largest religious monument in the world. Currently it is a hindu sanctuary, eagerly visited by big groups of monks. Honestly, vivid orange robes is a cherry on top of a visual deligh of the Angkor Wat’s panorama.
If you still don’t have it on the ‘must see before I die’ list- put it there!

DSC_4792cDSC_0390c:)cambodia-panorama06dDSC_4883cDSC_4891ccambodia-panorama08cDSC_0498cDSC_4598cTime to go further!

Cambodia: Ta Prohm

DSC_4467cCambodia always appeared to me as a mysterious land, unspoiled by the modern civilization. On the spot it turned out to be more than true.

Angkor is a region in Cambodia that served as the seat of the Khmer Empire, the largest empire of Southeast Asia that flourished between the 9th and 15th centuries. This ancient and revered Cambodian province is home to astonishing and enduring architectural evidence of the Khmer Empire’s Hindu and Mahayana Buddhist beliefs. There are over 100 stone temples scattered throughout the Angkor area, out of which we managed to visit 9 during our 3-days bike tour. Most of the sanctuaries are completely deserted in the jungle, thus exploring them makes you feel like Indiana Jones or Miss Lara Croft. Tomb Rider by the way, wether you find it ridiculous or not, made me fall in love with Cambodia for the first time. And even though I did not dress like Lara (some female tourist actually do that!!) or did not manage to find ‘the only jasmine tree’, roaming the ruins made me hungry for adventures :)

P.S. Big thank you to Daniela and Michael for making this happen and for great time we had in Cambodia!

P.P.S. Thanks also to National Geographic for including a guide book for Cambodia in the package of books I won last year.


DSC_4359cDSC_4361ctr_angelina_jolie_cambodiaDSC_4553cThe trees’ roots are not only picturesque but proved to hold the temples’ stones together. The few attempts to remove them resulted in collapsing the structures.DSC_4505cThe most remarkable spot from Tomb Rider is occupied by lines of tourists. We did not want to be worse ;)DSC_4506bcDSC_4488cDSC_4402b&wcDSC_4432b&wcDSC_4443cDSC_4428cDSC_4516cDSC_4408cDSC_4395cDSC_4394cDSC_4386cDSC_4384cDSC_4406cDSC_4423cDSC_4372cThe president of the European Council- Herman Van Rompuy turned out to be a historic architecture fan ;)DSC_4371cDSC_4377cDSC_4416cDSC_4564cOur reliable companions.








Welcome to New Territories

New Territories- the Northern region of Hong Kong is not a typical touristic destination. A few routes appointed for those few, who are either architects and urban planners or have seen everything on Hong Kong Island and Kawloon Peninsula, reveal a world of low cost houses interwoven with not always well maintained temples and cultural centers. This gives, however, a strong feeling of honesty and authenticity. Like a Christmas present, every corner reveals a surprise. Charming, XIX century old streets tell their stories and asks for visitors’ attention.

In XIX century HK was a magnet to thousands of Chinese and Westerns who came to the city driven by a perspective of wealth. The colony was soon overcrowded and under high risks of plagues. In order to accommodate it’s growing population an area, 12 times bigger than original Hong Kong Colonial. The extension of Kawloon was called New Territories.

   Unlike HK, New Territories present a peaceful, suburban life style.

How about a group photo? ;)

Fairytale- like house for sale. Anyone interested?

Multi storey housing create quite a strong contrast to the idillic small houses.